139 – Exact-Width Dado Jig

The Wood Whisperer is brought to you by Powermatic, the Gold Standard since 1921, and by Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, create with confidence. (jazzy music) The following is an excerpt from the wall-hanging cabinet Guild Build. The clip is approximately 15 minutes long, but it’s just one small part of one video for this project. That should give you an idea of the depth that we go into during these Guild Builds. To learn more about the benefits and features of membership, head to WoodWhispererGuild.com. Marc:Now this bad boy is
my exact-width dado jig. I love this thing. The reason it’s so great is because you don’t have to necessarily worry about the thickness of the material. You use the same router setup each and every time, and you can get a dado of any width because the jig itself uses the work piece to decide the position of the jig. Basically you have your layout lines on your work piece. You slide the fence up. There’s a fixed side of the jig so you line it up with your one line, and then the mobile side,
the movable side here basically take your work piece drop it in place, and then pinch it in there with the jig. Of course, you would want to clamp this to the work piece. Tighten it down. You’ve got two knobs on either end. Remove the work piece and now you just use a router with a guide
bushing and a router bit just a simple straight bit, or a spiral bit and you
could just plow through ride on one side and then ride back on the other side, and you’ll have an exact width dado. Now we’re going to cut
them using that method, but it’s important that you know how to make this thing so let
me show you that process. Voiceover:So here’s what you’ll need, four pieces of 3/4 inch ply cut
into 2 1/4 inch wide strips, our two main rails will be 24 inches long, our long fence is 12 inches long, and our short fence is 8 inches long, a few pieces of 1/4 inch thick solid wood edge banding cut to approximately 24 inches long, and some simple bolt and knob hardware. The first step is to
glue the solid wood trim to our plywood pieces. Just make sure that each piece has solid wood trim on one side. The solid wood is
smoother and more durable and will help our jig
last for years to come. Once the trim is dry, I use an auxiliary fence at the table saw to trim it flush. The fence is nothing
more than a piece of ply with a rabbit cut into one corner. The key is to position the blade perfectly flush with the fence. I use a scrap piece of wood to help me determine when the blade
is in the perfect position. If the scrap piece moves the blade, I tap the fence over just
a hair and try again. Once the piece rides safely past the blade without the blade moving, the fence is set. Now I just run each piece through and the edge banding is trimmed flush. It’s not perfect, but
it’s close and it saves a lot of time. Any overhanging edge banding is trimmed flush at the miter saw. A little sanding further
smooths the edge banding making it perfectly
flush with the surface. With the solid wood edge
facing away from you lay out the slot on the short fence. Mark a line 1 1/2 inches
in from the left edge, and then another line four inches in. With the solid wood edge facing you, lay out the slot on the long fence. Mark a line 2 1/2 inches
in from the left edge, and another 5 inches in. Now when you butt the two fence pieces up solid edge to solid edge, it should look like this. Now mark a center line on the end of one of the fence pieces. This is going to help
us set up the router. At the router table I adjust the fence so that the center line of the work piece lines up perfectly with
the center line of the bit. Now I’ll use my auxiliary fence to show me where my bit starts and stops. You’ll see why we need this in a moment. I simply push my work
piece up against the bit, and line up the auxiliary fence with the end of the work piece and then lock it down. Do this on both sides. Now with the bit raised about 1/4 inch, I start cutting my slot. I want to stay within my lines so knowing where that bit starts and stops is absolutely essential. The process can be a
little scary at first, but watch the technique. Push the work piece against the fence and slowly slide it down onto the bit. Make the cut and then
carefully lift the piece off while pushing it against the fence. Now I raise the bit another 1/4 inch and repeat the cuts. You can keep raising the bit until it goes all the way through, but I decided that it would be safer if I simply extend my reference lines to the other face, and then finish the routing from the other side of the work piece. The movable rail piece
now needs a couple holes for the bolts so I mark in 1 1/4 inches from the edge. Since my bolts have an elliptical head, and I want to keep the head
just below the surface, I use a 1/2 inch forstner bit to create a flat-bottomed recess about 1/8 inch deep. A chisel can help fine tune the fit. Now using a 3/8 inch bit, I drill the through hole for the bolt. The next step is absolutely crucial to the accuracy of the jig. I said before that the solid wood edging was for durability, but that’s only half the story. It also allows us to fine tune the edge to make sure that it’s perfectly straight. So I use my straight edge to determine if there are any hills or valleys. It looks like there is a bit of a dip on one end of one of my rails. I mark the location of the dip, and then put pencil marks along the edge where I need to remove some stock. With the piece secured in the vise, I can now use my Number 7 joiner plane to joint the edge perfectly straight. I start removing the trouble area first, and then work my way back with each pass. I thought about muting the sound here because of the game in the background, but seriously the playoffs combined with the sound of a plane making shavings, if that’s not paradise I don’t know what is. (tv sports in background) Now when I get full shavings from one side to the other, I can check my progress again. When your two solid wood edges go together with absolutely no gaps, your work is done. Now with the two rails facing each other like you see here, we can lay out the rabbit. The rabbit is approximately
an eighth of an inch by a half inch. The dimensions aren’t super critical. A straight bit in the router table makes quick work of the job. Now it’s time to attach
the rails to the fence. With the two fence pieces
facing one another, line up the slots and mark the spot where the short fence ends. This is the point of
attachment of our rail. Pull the pieces apart and line up the fixed rail with the
mark on the long fence, and the end of the short fence. With the long fence clamped to the bench, I add glue to both pieces and line everything up
with a reliable square. One brad nail holds everything in place temporarily while I clean
up the glue squeeze-out. Now I can do my final alignment. When everything is perfectly square, I put in the second brad
nail to lock things down. I like to add a couple of screws for extra reinforcement, but only after the glue is set up. Make sure the screws sit below the face of the rail. Now repeat this process
for the small fence. And here’s the final assembly of the jig. Insert the bolts through
the moveable rail, and then through the two fence pieces. Flip the piece over and add a washer and a knob to each bolt. Now with the jig set
up on a piece of scrap, we can make our first
vital pass with the router. This is what establishes the edge. As you can see there’s a slight gap between the guide bushing
and the rabbit that we cut. This is done intentionally so that the very first pass we make, we’ll trim away just a slight amount of material from the lip. But it ensures that the lip is now perfectly representative of where the bit is going to cut. Marc:Now that our jig is together, let’s cut those dados. So I’ve got the work piece clamped to the bench here, and our jig is going to go just like so. The reason I have it overhanging is because the handles
on the bottom of the jigs stick out too far. You can’t really put
everything flat on the bench. You need a little bit
of extra clearance here. So let’s put that out there
as a little challenge. See if somebody can take this basic design and modify it so that
it’s a little bit easier if you use on a flat workbench. Until then this should do the job. What we need to do now is take our actual work piece that’s going to be this divider and put is up here, mark up the center lines, and then we’ll trace the
outer edges of the shelf. I’m just going to line up my center line on my divider piece with the cabinet side center line. Once it’s perfect hold
it down with one hand, take a nice, sharp
pencil and mark one side. Now just bring the jig over, and I’m going to line up my fixed portion, the fixed side of the jig, to that line that I just drew. Now I just secure the
jig with a small clamp. Now the cool part about
the jig is since we know that this rail is
perfectly square to the fence, we only really needed that one little portion of a line. We don’t need to extend
the line all the way, and we also don’t need a second line because we’re going to
use the work piece itself to give us the measurement we need. Just basically slide it on over. Give it a good amount of pressure. You really want to squeeze
that work piece in. Tighten that bad boy down. Now I always recommend
testing on scrap first because you want to
make sure that this jig is producing the fit that you want it to. You might find that it’s
a little bit too loose and you need to squeeze
these pieces together a little bit more firmly before clamping everything down. If you do have a slightly loose fit, what I would recommend
is tightening these up with the use of a clamp. Bring a little clamp in here and see if you can’t just bring
those pieces together with a little bit of
clamping pressure, not a lot. If you clamp too much, you’re going to have a problem. Just a little bit more than you would do with your bare hands. Once you’re there tighten it down. That’s pretty good. Remove the clamp, and now what you’ll want to look at is when you pull this piece up, this gap that’s in here is reflective of the actual fit that
you’re going to experience. If this piece just pops right out with no problem, you’re going to have a loose dado. If you have to sort of
pull on it a little bit before it lets go, you’re in pretty good shape. I wouldn’t recommend doing this too much because you can sort of
push these rail pieces out of the way if you’re not careful. But you can put the piece back in and get a pretty good idea of how that’s going to fit all the way across. To me, that feels like
it’s going to be perfect. (router buzzing) And there it is, our stopped dado. Cut it pretty close on
the front line here, but I’m just on the line. This one still needs some work, but nothing that we can’t do with a chisel and a hammer. To test the fit I’ve got my divider here. I won’t be able to get the whole thing in because I haven’t cut the divider to the proper size yet, but it’s a nice, snug fit. Frankly, with just a little
bit of finish sanding on this piece, I think it’s going to
slide in just perfectly. As you can see this is an extremely handy jig to have around. I’ve been meaning to build one for years, and I always kind of
cobble something together, but I think this one
although it’s not perfect, it’s close enough. I think it’s one that’s
going to stick with me for a while. One thing I do want to mention about it is you have to keep in mind it is sort of married at this point, not to the router. That’s the reason I built it this way. I’m not worried about the router base, I’m just worried about the guide bushing and the router bit that I use. This is specifically
designed for a 5/8 inch guide bushing and a 1/2 inch router bit. It works perfectly for this. If I change the guide
bushing or the router bit, I’m going to get a different result here. But this can handle dados from I can probably just do
a simple 1/2 inch dado on up to well, as big as
I make the jig really. You can go as far as you want. So any practical size that I would need for furniture making is
covered with this jig. You may want to downsize it. You may want to make it bigger, wider, use a different guide bushing and bit combination. For me, this is what I had on hand and seems to work really well. I hope you guys will make
some variations of this and show me what you were
able to put together. (sung) By Marc Spagnuolo,
The Wood Whisperer. Voiceover:I’ve been
getting a lot of questions about our closing music. Most of them say something like, “What the heck is that lady saying? “It’s driving me nuts.” Well, here’s the story. One of our biggest international fans happens to be a musician. His name is Horatio and he’s pretty much the Venezuelan Kenny G only cooler. He calls himself El Saxofonista. It sounds a lot cooler though if you say it like El Saxofonista. Anyway, several months ago he sent me this great song with a very talented woman saying something that vaguely sounded like my name. Turns out she’s saying,
“By Marc Spagnuolo, “The Wood Whisperer,” only with a very heavy accent. While I couldn’t use the song as my main intro music, I figured it was groovy enough and funny enough to
use as the outro music. Hey, it’s not every day that someone in Venezuela makes a custom song for you. How can I not use it on the show? And now you know. You can learn more about Horatio and his music at Elsaxofonista.com. (sung) By Marc Spagnuolo,
The Wood Whisperer.

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100 Responses


    Too long. Too much talk and too many details to easily follow. The plans would be much easier to use if they were presented in a PDF format. 

  2. BrianRDub says:

    Some folks have suggested putting the knobs on top.  This can work so long as you use much wider lower fences (extending further outward from work-piece edges) OTHERWISE the knobs will interfere with the router travel.  Also, you could route a T-slot in the lower fence and flip the T-bolt around OR use a wider upper adjustable fence and slot it, with the T-track bolt captured in the lower fence.  HOWEVER, the problem with widening any fence on this design is that it demands larger clamps to span the width.  Not a show stopper but….

  3. bayarearoadster says:

    I think you'd be able to put the knobs on top if you were to make the Long and Short fences wider, then offset the knobs to the outside edge.  How much wider and how much to offset will be determined by your router base, enough so it doesn't interfere when you are at the ends.  May not even have to do this to the short end unless you really want to use the full length of the jig.

  4. Mat H says:

    Works a treat I made one yesterday with a lovely oak trim. Cheers for the step by step guide Mark even I couldn't go wrong 🙂

  5. bati800 says:

    great way to do things. and i like your way to use auxiliary fince to trem the excess of wood

  6. Peter Menningen says:

    I'm going to make one of these. Here is a possible solution to your challenge Place either t-nuts or Rosin inserts on the fixed front and back boards T-nuts from bottom recessed. Use hex allen countersunk flat head Machine Screws from the top recessed to be flush  For the key take an old allen wrench that fits the Machine screw and cut it off and drive it into an old screwdriver handle  The length of the screw should be around 1-1/4" if you are using 3/4" ply for the parts 
    Bolts Brass 1 1/4" Full  Pkg/5 97595A312  $7.07
    T-nuts Stainless 5/16"-18  Barrel length 3/8"  Flange Dia 7/8" 13/32" PK/ 5   4pins 90973A420  $7.85
    Inserts 5/16"-18 5/8" 1/2" Pk/10 90016A030   $6.97

  7. charlie-g says:

    nice work…how did you get 96 dislike is beyond me…

  8. nancyrfrinemonsreal says:

    Hi Mark, I'm a woodworker wannabe.  I think for the exact-width dado jig, if you make it so it can go all the way across your work table, that would solve the problem of having the working piece hanging over the table.  All you have to do bring the piece you are working with closed to you. 

  9. Walter Rider says:

    thanks  i got a funny for u generation gap. my son is 31 i been harping at him ( he wears ) just tee shirts . men wear shirts with buttons. i have been watching your stuff when i realized u just wear tee shirts lol it just struck me as fun and i was being an old geezer things change. i got off my sons butt about the tees  thanks for that and all your videos 

  10. Thomas Schumacher says:

    where could i buy this bolts and nuts,what is shown in the beginning of this video??

  11. Barry Norman says:

    Great jig relatively easy to make and will be very useful.


  12. Jerry Gioia Sr says:

    Great Job

  13. William Swope says:

    With your design, just flip the knobs to the top of the jig.  Should solve most of the overhang problem

  14. andyhujian says:

    How can u make sure to move the router straight? There's no fence for the router to against with.

  15. Tommy .Gibbons says:

    hey marc, so glad I clicked your vid. I made two of these way back now I find I need em again,sooo. I used a bearing over pattern bit to cut the slots, but you have to be more careful. why anyone would not appreciate your vid is like the rest of those mysteries.

  16. Mett1971 says:

    Patriots vs. Jets?

  17. robrez says:

    The design here is the inverted version:

  18. Kelly R. says:

    Another possible solution to the challenge posed: put the bolts thru from the bottom, so the knobs are on top. So that the knobs aren't in the way of the router base, simply make your two rails wider, and position the knobs towards the outside.

  19. Johnny Paulick says:

    mm. mm. mm.  milimeter, Pleace..

  20. Nala Youn says:

    Knobs on top .Recess the bolt heads using lock washers will prevent shifting.. Adding a twist knob on each end allows adjustment for any bit.Your video presentation has improved greatly form the first one I viewed. My first impression was a not so serous wood worker hopped up on too much caffeine.Everyone deserves  the benefit of doubt. Then you mentioned Sponge Bob Square Pants. Being an Old Duffer an spent time with my children s children watching that show. Well you had me then.. Keep the videos coming. Enjoy each one. Thank You

  21. John Fithian-Franks says:


    Hi I have a similar jig I built some time ago, the difference is that the two pieces that the router runs along are made wider than half the router width and then the router is used to make the runners the exact width required. Then you use it the same as your jig but you can use any normal straight cutting router bit. The line "A" is set by running the router against the fence.

  22. Barry Waddington says:

    Make the slotted side wider so you can have the knob upwards and the router will still clear it

  23. Charles Wray Jr says:

    Exactly what router bit is being used for the all-important "first vital pass" after jig is completed. It's key to finishing the jig, but is not mentioned!

  24. Sam Sabastian says:

    At least 80% of the people watching this have no idea what an inch is.   How about also including metric measurements so the measurements are understood at least.   
    Just remember that 95% of the world is now metric.

  25. Joseph Giampietro says:

    Marc, I built this jig, but it seems like it's necessary to clamp your stock in before tightening the knobs as you did here. However, I find it's kind of a crapshoot when it comes to the final fit. Too much pressure=too tight, too little=too loose, which kind of defeats the purpose of this jig. I was thinking about slipping a piece of paper or other thin material in with the stock then tightening the heck out of it. Anyone else have this experience? 

    Awesome jig at any rate, beats the hell out of the old straight edge and scoot over business.

  26. Cesar Feliciano says:

    Me gusta mucho el trabajo en madera. Todas estas ideas son cool thanks a lot.

  27. Pat M says:

    So Marc, did anyone come up with any better suggestions on how to do the knobs?

  28. Ataman Atlas says:

    RE: Working on flat bench and knobs, why not just reverse the way the knobs work?  i.e. the Bolt heads flat into the other side ? if you get my gist ?

  29. David Allen says:

    do you have a design or video of your work bench I've searched for it a few times with no luck

  30. Danny Marchese says:

    NIce video, where can I find a bit like the one you're using?

  31. John McGuire says:

    Hi Wood Whisperer, I really like your videos. They are precise and accurate. I have a couple of questions about the router bit you used. Did you have to assemble that combination of bit and bearing? At 8:12 of the video the bit looks like it is tapered with the bottom being much wider than the top. It looks like you would use it to cut a v-shaped keyway. Is this just an illusion?

  32. Todd York says:

    Now to design it for both ways so I can make a drip edge around the top of a cutting board…

  33. OBServe Garage says:

    Why not just buy router bits the exact size of the width of the wood you are cutting a dado for? Time is money. Worker smarter, not harder!!!!

  34. cpdr80b says:

    can you make me one and I pay you for it?

  35. mpride1911 says:

    This is so simple, but I can't describe how much of a headache this would have saved me if I knew about this last weekend.

  36. Daniel Jones says:

    turn the knob over, so the flat bolt is on the bottom 🙂

  37. Dave Girr says:

    Can anyone explain why the bushing is a different size then the bit?

  38. muralidhara mysore says:

    Great jig. Modification could be screw in nut in place of T bolt and socket head cap screw (Allen screw ) with a wide washer in a stepped slot on the top. With this set-up you will need an Allen wrench handy !!

  39. charles devillier says:

    Word of warning to anyone building this jig… i just finished building this jig and it works great, but i quickly realized that there is no stop for your side to side so if you're making a dado all the way across the piece, you can easily continue the dado onto the jig itself. I only found this out after doing this to my brand new jig. It will still work but its just weakened now with a 3/4 inch dado cut into the fence piece. I also found out the hard way that if you are not careful taking the router off the jig while its still spinning, you will knick the edge of your perfectly straight reference edge…. obviously these things are common sense, i guess i got a little too excited to try out my new jig.

    Anyway, top knotch video and idea marc!

  40. christopher Suttles says:

    I am a little confused regarding the router bit and bushing combination and how it references on the jig. Does the bushing ride in the rabbit you cut in the hardwood piece? You said the dimensions of the rabbit weren't critical.

  41. Blue Jay Farm says:

    I always enjoy your videos WW… always!

  42. Artie Kendall says:

    Couldn't you just make the cross members of the jig (top and bottom) wider thus extending the attachment points for the rails? That would move the bolts away from the work area and allow for the router to make a full pass without colliding with the knob.

  43. Harvey Bissette says:

    Could you give me the number of the magazine. I'm sure I have it.

  44. Adam XRP Son says:

    Hi TWW, what is the brand and model of your router saw?

  45. TriggerTube243 says:

    Afternoon Mark. Cool jig.. How about dumping the bolt and knob and put a short section of T track in the two end pieces and just use s shoulder bolt to anchor the second rail. Wouldn't interfere with the router and you'd only need a ball driver to loosen and tighten the second rail.. DAL

  46. Brian M. says:

    As a beginning wood worker, this just saved me a bunch of money.

  47. Austin Solis says:

    the sound of the playoffs and the sound of wood shavings hahah truly paradise , great videos man, learning a lot! thanks

  48. DENMONKEY says:

    little clamp ???

  49. Retired Dude says:

    Thanks for your videos Marc, very helpful. You pointed out the limitation of the design being the positioning of the tightening knobs (under the tracks) thus preventing work on a flat surface. I was about to use Jay Bates' design (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmyGkW16EpI) until I saw the jig used by Bill Hylton of Woodworkers Journal (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZnGETOFgcg). Both of these designs use tightening knobs above the tracks…I decided to use the Woodworkers Journal design. PS. I love your new shop!

  50. Lionel Achari says:

    hmmm 1st thing came to mind was flip the knobs and maybe add to more pieces of wood that slide

  51. de Schurk says:

    i would like to show the amazing jig i made, but i can't post pictures here! 😐
    Well, i'll better start using it! 🙂

  52. The Tokyo Craftsman says:

    Well after cobbling together a few of this type of jig and never being really happy with the results, today I gave it the full "Spagnuolo" and made it to spec, just like you did Marc, the glue is still setting up on the final attachment to of the long guide rails to the short and long end rails, but it looks great.

  53. Gerber Gonzalez says:

    I love your videos they helped me make a lot of furniture. Keep up the good work!

  54. Dennis McGrath says:

    I watched three videos regarding perfect width dados. Each was progressively better. Yours was number 3. If I had learned nothing else I am grateful for learning how to make a mini "L" fence to trim edge banding. The jig that you built is elegant right down to the hardwood edges. I am going to put this movie on my favorites bar.

  55. Robin Hale says:


  56. Australia william says:

    Hi,why use plywood,why not hardwood?

  57. Fiona Shanahan says:

    too bad if you don't have router table

  58. Hüseyin YÜKSEL says:

    ne diyon oğlum

  59. G B says:

    I am curious, would you please explain why you chose a guide bushing / router bit set up vs a patterning bit with an integral guide top bearing?

    Regards and thanks for all I have learned from your excellent videos !


  60. bluesky6327 says:

    Super. I learned a lot just watching your techniques for building the jig.

  61. MrAlchemist7777 says:

    Thanx Marc straight forward design

  62. Robert says:

    I suggest one or two strips of tape in the sample to improve the fit.

  63. Rodney Singh says:

    hello i am just starting out can you recommend a table saw and brad nailer and other tools you think i would need thanks you do a good job explaining

  64. elvis o'shaughnessy says:

    Hi can we use straight bit instead using spirol bit on a router table for making the slots for making the jig

  65. Chris C says:

    I usually don't like watching vids where the guy uses all these high end/expensive tools and gizmos, but must admit you do a really nice job of presenting the project! I made one of these years back from a ShopNotes plan using hardboard and hardwood strips..and it worked perfect as well. Good job!

  66. Robert Brunston says:

    Thank you.

  67. Tommy .Gibbons says:

    I love this jig, thanks.

  68. AndyB says:

    Made the slotted side twice as wide (5") so the knobs could be on top and be clear of the router. Worked perfectly! Thanks.

  69. Larry Harsh says:

    I can't see how he got any dislikes. This is a nice , useful jig.

  70. Ken Erickson says:

    I am setting up my new shop and needed to build wall cabinets with a top and bottom set into dados. I just made one of these dado guides with some scrap 3/4" MDF. My adjustment slots were made with a drill bit and then cut out with a jig saw between holes. I ensured my 1/4 – 20 bolts slid without binding. I added threaded inserts into the top of the sliding piece and used a toilet flange bolt and home made star knobs that screwed into the threaded insert (ensuring the bolt didn't raise above the top). Instead of using a bushing, I used a top-bearing 1/2" pattern router bit that runs along the 2 edges. I couldn't get pattern bit locally less than 1" long, so I had to add 1/4" strips to raise the guide edge. It worked fine.

  71. acehood82 says:

    I followed your instructions and found it very easy to make. I use this jig all the time. Thanks for sharing this!

  72. George Barthel says:

    Great video. I am endeavoring to start making this jig based on the inspiration here! Thanks in advance. Question. Could the initial 1/2 x 1/8 rail rabbet be done just as well with a table saw?

  73. Roger Wideman says:

    Put the knob on the top.

  74. Carlos Roque says:

    By my question you willknow I am very new at this but I will try to make this jig. Where can I find that 5/b router bit bearing with a 1/2 d. router? I have a performax 1/2" straight flush router with a 1/2 D bearing and could (unless you tell me I am wrong) replace the bearing with a 5/8 D bearing but I can’t seem to find a bearing this size. Do you or anybody have the product number for that particular bearing? Thank you all for the help.

  75. Carlos Roque says:

    Sorry 5/8 d not 5/b

  76. Larry Quinn says:

    Thanks Marc for making this video. This is exactly what I need to make some storage cabinets and tool cabinets for my garage. Spot on.

  77. Zdunchyk says:

    Imperial sadness….

  78. solsdadio says:

    Thanks for sharing. Good health to you and yours.

  79. Michael Lusk says:

    What do we do if no router table? I’m referring to TS 4:25 in the video

  80. Stanley Hall says:

    What is the name of the bolts you used? I've looked everywhere can't find them.

  81. Gary WILKINS says:

    Hello Mark,
    You could put the tightening knobs at the top, making your adjustable pieces at the end a little longer and use a palm router not a large router because the dado is normally not that deep, just a thought!
    Gary Wilkins
    Australia 11/2018

  82. Cheryl Barrett says:


  83. Bob Abooey says:

    0:47 Then why dont you marry it???

  84. Humblehombre says:

    This is great for beginners. It's like describing how to chew gum.

  85. Scott Jordan says:

    I am curious why you didn't use a flush trim bit on the edge banding. You built this to use with a router. And I can't imagine many, if any, people own a router but not a flush trim bit, as opposed to a table saw.

  86. cardsfanbj says:

    Just raise up the workpiece enough to give yourself enough room to use the jig over the bench

  87. godsmwc65 says:

    And now The USA is overthrowing Venezuela . Rev 13:11

  88. IanC says:

    Hope woodpeckers at least sent you a review copy of their exact-width dado jig https://youtu.be/2H6wR6udGiA

  89. clark garber says:

    $350 bucks for the woodpecker one? Yeah I'll make yours. Thanks!

  90. Karl Davis says:

    What brand are the little clamps you used to secure the two fences when flushing out the hardwood using the little rabbet channel ? I’ve watched the video about 30 times. Thanks for your post! John

  91. Sarcastic Guitar says:

    After watching your one time tool demo.i was wondering what would be the maximum length you would feel comfortable building this jig to?

  92. Erik Carroll says:

    It wouldn't have the convenience of tool-free adjustment, but chicago bolts would be flush top and bottom.

  93. Felix Reali says:

    love this jig. gonna build my own soon. But can someone explain what Mark says at 12:48 please? I don't quite understand why this wouldn't work with other bits in it. I'm a newbie at routing so please forgive my question 🙂

  94. Richard Jones says:

    Thank you, Mark. Using this system saved me the cost of an Incra jig. 🙂

  95. Alessandro Corradini says:

    The use of top bearing mortise bit is simpler and more practical. You can avoid the lip gap and the bushing/bit centering problems. The use of a short bit here is mandatory. CMT and others have quite a few of these bits on their catalgues. Sorry for my bad English.

  96. gordanzzzz says:

    Where can I find those big read clamps ?
    Nice video thanks

  97. Paulo Silva says:

    He explains and do all things so complicated…?

  98. Jerry Krauth says:

    use a large washer on the bottom with a slight inset around the bolt slot, or a wide top bolt, then put the knob on top

  99. Jack Bucchare says:

    Looking to build a router dado jig . Thanks jack Bucchare

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